Should you sand wood after staining

Should I sand after I stain wood?

Sanding is usually done before staining so as to prepare the surface for finishing. Sanding removes excess fibers and makes the surface smooth and even, allowing the stain to effectively take hold, bond, and spread.

It’s important to know when to do what. Like if/ when to sand cabinets after staining or if you should stain furniture after sanding.

Though it’s not really advisable to re-sand a piece after staining it, you may want to lightly do so in order to remove fibers that have curved upwards due to the wood getting wet by the stain.

You don’t want to get stuck on how to fix rough sanding after staining, right?

Other than wanting a smooth surface, you mainly want to avoid sanding after staining. 

When to sand after you stain wood?

Most woodwork projects, in general, don’t need sanding after applying each coat of stain.

What you want to do is avoid faint sanding scratches seen in the wood after staining.

There is a high chance that you’ll end up with either stain chipping or blotching, which can further result in wood damage.

For projects like furniture making, wood crafts, and outdoor landscaping, you don’t need to sand after staining.

So let’s look at instances where it’s okay to do so.

• Lightening surfaces – certain surfaces can appear dull after intense sanding. Applying a stain can help make surfaces appear brighter and more lustrous.
• Surface smoothing – staining can often coarse the surface because it wets the wood, causing fibers to stand; lightly sanding after removes these excesses.
• Surface mark removal – sometimes, staining can leave irregular marks or patches on the wood, especially if it wasn’t properly sanded prior. Sand these spots to remove unwanted marks. It’s best to use wet and dry fine-grit sandpaper if you don’t want to bother with how to fix sanding marks after staining.
• New coat prep – you can sand after staining to rough the surface in preparation for applying a new coat. Using fine-grit wet and dry sandpaper to remove dust that stuck on the last coat. or if you want to recycle and re-stain an old piece.

Type of sandpaper to use in different finishes

Sandpapers usually come in various degrees of abrasiveness, mainly coarse, medium, and fine. Each type of sandpaper polishes wood differently and can greatly affect the effectiveness of the stain to latch onto your piece. 

Coarse (below 100 grit). Good for removing old layers of wood either for recycling or refinishing. Use this mainly to remove blemishes and old stains.

Medium (100 – 120 grit). The general, all-purpose sandpaper grade for removing scratches, dents, and splinter-causing edges. Medium sandpaper is ideal for 1st sanding. 

Fine (220+ grit). Often used for finishing and 2nd sanding. Any coarseness and irregularities left behind by my medium sandpaper are removed by this, making it ideal for pre-stain.

Types of finishes on wood

• Pre-stain wood conditioner – Blocks out pores in the wood so that it takes stain more evenly. Use fine sandpaper.
• Polyurethane water-based stain – A less odorous and more environmentally friendly and faster-drying version of oil-based stain.
• Polyurethane oil-based stain – Long-lasting and vibrant wood coloring that adds both shine and depth to your finish.
• Varnish – A clear, transparent, and hard protective finish that can be applied either over the stain or directly onto sanded wood. 
• Paint – Multi-purpose and versatile coloring agents that come in different kinds. Use fine sandpaper depending on how well your paint sticks to wood (E.G Lacquer > Acrylic).

Considerations to take before you stain on wood

• Drying in sunlight – It’s never a first class idea to leave your wood projects under the sun to dry as it can potentially warp the wood or cause blemishes in the stain such as fading and discoloration.
• Check that you have the best wood finish – Best to make sure you have the best wood finish before staining for best results. For symmetry and consistency, consider using a finishing sander after a thickness planer to effectively fine-tune your piece. 
• Room temperature – Make sure to work in ideal temperatures depending on what stain you use as it can affect the quality and length of the staining process. 
• Sanding according to grain direction – Take care to sand with the direction of the grain as sanding cross-grain reveals more scratches on the wood.
• Pre-treat the grain – Using products like a pre-stain wood conditioner or a wood filler helps stains to bond quicker and more evenly to the wood.
• Work away from air conditioning vents – Airflow as you apply stain can impede and even counteract its bonding process, leaving uneven and messy color patches.

What tools help with the job?

A finishing sander will get you that ultra-fine and smooth finish which helps the stain stick, while an orbital sander will let you do detail work to even out trims and tight areas of intricate pieces.

Both work better with the grain as opposed to sanding by hand. 

If you’re repurposing old furniture, you can use a heat gun for stripping off old coats of paint. You’ll be amazed at what other jobs heat guns can do to.

When drying, you can leave your project somewhere outside, under partial and covered shade.

If you prefer to work indoors, you can make use of a fan to speed up drying and blow away odorous fumes, especially if using oil-based stains.

Just take care not to place the fan too close as it may forcibly blow the stain into different directions, making for an unequal and unsightly finish.

Did you know that there are 15 different types of sanders for different jobs?

Common asked  questions

How long does it take for the stain to dry?

That depends on proper conditions and what type of stain is used. Generally, oil-based stains dry slower and take between 3-5 days to completely dry.

Water-based stains usually dry in only about 2 days. Both stains require 24-hr curing before pieces can either be touched or used.

Otherwise, stains used outdoors applied in direct sunlight, on a porous wood can mostly dry in only half an hour.

Can you overstain?

Yes.

If you apply too much wood stain, it can build up and the added thickness can make your finish look tacky and messy.

Here’s an important reminder.

While staining sounds simple enough, the bulk of the work of the process lies in the pre-stain stage, where you must ensure that your piece is primed and ready for a coated finish. 

It’s important that your piece is optimized for the stain to adhere, set, and spread out evenly and well.

While fine-grit sandpaper does this well enough, nothing beats a finishing sander when it comes to getting pristine smoothness and evenness quicker- it is no doubt the best tool to use for pre-stain.

If you need to sand between coats use fine grit [2] wet and dry sandpaper that leaves behind the smoothest possible finish.-

Your final coat shouldn’t be sanded but make sure your last coat is thin so it doesn’t leave any drips or brush marks behind.